At Honolulu Coffee Co., every cup tells a story. It begins with the people who grow, harvest, and care for our coffee trees with patience and aloha. Today, we are proud to share the story of Ryson Nakamasu, our Farm Operations Manager on the Big Island of Hawaii. His journey from construction work to leading both our Kona farm and the Hawaii Coffee Association (HCA) is a reminder of how deeply connected coffee is to family, community, and tradition in Hawaii.
One of Ryson’s proudest achievements is the recent release of our 100% Kona Natural, a very special typica coffee that reflects not only the unique terroir of Kona but also his dedication to honoring traditional farming practices and Kona’s heritage coffee varietal.
From Oʻahu Roots to Kona Fields
Honolulu Coffee Co.'s Kona Coffee Farm
Ryson grew up on Oʻahu, where summers often meant traveling to other islands to visit family. In Waimea on the Big Island, he spent time with his mom’s family, who also farmed on agricultural lands. There, he helped feed cows and pigs, and learned about the reservoirs that kept the land thriving. On Kauaʻi, he visited his dad’s family in Kapaʻa, where he did lots of fishing and camped outdoors. These childhood experiences instilled in him a love for agriculture and the outdoors that would later shape his career.
In 1997, Ryson moved to the Big Island. At the time, he was working in the construction industry, but a back injury and surgery pushed him to take a new path. In 2012, He began working for our Hilton Waikoloa Village café, helping install machines and equipment. Soon after, he became a barista before temporarily traveling back and forth between Oʻahu and the Big Island to serve as our warehouse manager.
By 2014, as our Kona farm expanded, Ryson officially stepped into the role of Farm Operations Manager. The skills and values he carried from his upbringing has proven to have guided his work ever since.
A Day in the Life on the Kona Farm
Ryson describes his role as always making sure our farmers are his #1 priority and to make sure the team has everything they need to work safely and effectively. That preparation often begins the day before, whether it’s setting out baskets and ganchos (hooks) for the harvesters, or ensuring that the maintenance team has the tools to keep roads and farm conditions in good shape and products to keep the farm healthy and free of pests.
The challenges are many, and none are greater than nature itself. Too much rain can cause coffee cherries to split open, soaking up excess water that affects quality. Our farms use natural irrigation, so not enough rain is not good as well. Also, In 2021, coffee leaf rust devastated much of the crop, forcing the farm to cut down trees and begin again with patience and care. Yet the rewards are equally powerful: seeing healthy coffee trees thrive, harvest after harvest, under the Kona sun.
The Story of 100% Kona Natural
This year, Ryson and the farm team harvested a typica coffee unlike anything else in our lineup: 100% Kona Natural. Unlike the washed process used for our other Kona coffees from our farm, natural processing allows the beans to ferment inside the cherry when drying slowly in the sun on raised drying racks. This year’s harvest revealed tropical tasting notes of papaya, kiwi, and green tea!
The process is delicate and unpredictable. Sunny days are ideal for even drying, while overcast skies mean the process takes longer and mold can set in. No two harvests are ever exactly alike. Last year, this same type of processed coffee received a top 8 award at HCA's cupping competition, so we knew we had to recreate a batch large enough to share with coffee lovers around the world. This year, the coffee cherries were slightly smaller in which the coffee slightly altered in tasting notes, but Ryson and the farm team were able to still produce a coffee that earned a top 10 award in the Creative Division at this year's HCA cupping competition.
For Ryson, this 100% Kona Natural is a way to celebrate the land while also proving that traditional practices still hold their place in a modern coffee industry. This limited edition, single-roast batch has already sold out online, but you can find some through select cafes on O‘ahu while supplies last (Moana Surfrider, Ala Moana, Bakery on King, Sheraton Waikiki Poolside, and Prince Waikiki).
Staying True to Traditional Farming
The natural process is more than a technique—it’s a philosophy. As Hawaii’s coffee industry continues to modernize with new equipment, technology, and even introduction of new varieties of plants, Ryson remains committed to traditional farming practices. “We wanted to stay true to our roots,” he explains.
On our Kona farm, every cherry is harvested by hand. There are no machines combing the fields, only experienced farmers selecting the ripest cherries from each branch. After wet milling and drying in the Kona sun, the beans are dry milled, husked, and prepared for roasting at our Honolulu roastery. This approach ensures that quality is never compromised, and it honors the methods passed down through generations of Hawaii coffee farmers.
Serving the Hawaii Coffee Community
Ryson with Tyler Zimmer (HCC Co-Owner) at the 2024 HCA Conference Awards Ceremony
Ryson’s influence extends far beyond our Kona farm. As the newly elected President of the Hawaii Coffee Association, he now represents the coffee industry across the islands from producers to the cafes. The HCA is an advocate for shaping laws that protect Hawaii’s coffee industry from State level and all the way to the Nations Capital. It also plays a vital role in education, making sure farmers have the resources and visibility they need.
We proudly stand behind Ryson’s goal to create greater transparency in Hawaii’s coffee industry so that members of the HCA—and the wider community—see the direct impact of their time and investment. He believes that being present at community events, speaking on behalf of local farmers, and strengthening connections within Hawaii’s tight-knit agricultural community will be key to the future!
The Importance of Local Farmers
For Ryson, the role of local farmers cannot be overstated. “Local farmers are important to keep Hawaii coffee, Hawaii, and without the farmers cafes won’t have that special cup of aloha grown coffee,” he says. Yet the challenges are real. Rising costs of living, expensive farming supplies, and the difficulty of making a sustainable living have caused many local farmers to leave the industry. This means fewer opportunities for younger generations to see agriculture as a viable path forward as big investors or retired investors from outside of Hawaii are acquiring parcels of overpriced fertile soil land.
Hawaii is also one of the most isolated places in the world, which means supplies essential to agriculture are expensive and not always easily accessible. Add to that the commitment to pay farmworkers a liveable wage and the daily upkeep required to sustain a healthy farm, and it becomes clear why Kona coffee is priced differently than coffees from other parts of the world.
Through his work with the HCA and on the farm, Ryson is determined to shift that narrative, showing that with the right support, Hawaii’s farmers can continue to thrive and preserve the integrity of Kona coffee for years to come.
Inspiration Rooted in ʻOhana
Ryson and his Kona coffee farm team
Family and community are what keep Ryson inspired. Whether he is managing the farm team or representing Hawaii’s coffee industry as HCA President, he sees success as something collective, never individual. “If one person fails, we all fail,” he explains, emphasizing that coffee in Hawaii is more than an industry; it is a community.
We are incredibly proud of Ryson’s journey, his leadership, and the impact he continues to make both on our farm and across the Hawaiian coffee community. Mahalo for reading about Ryson's journey with us! We cannot wait to continue sharing the fruits of his passion with all of you.
